A number of vintage engagement rings at Barneys curated by Stephanie Levy. Picture by Marion Fasel
Stunned? Me too. Properly, I found it’s comparatively new. Simply over a 12 months in the past, jewellery professional Stephanie Windsor who curates the vintage assortment Stephanie Windsor Antiques for the Barneys flagship shops was requested so as to add engagement rings to the assortment. With a view to study in regards to the shopping for expertise and assortment, Stephanie and considered one of her shoppers on the hunt for an engagement ring allowed me to sit down in on the method (photographed above). I went again a second time to interview Stephanie in regards to the vintage engagement rings at Barneys. Following is an excerpt from our dialog.
First, I’m so curious, how does somebody who desires an vintage engagement ring discover your choice or start the method of working with you at Barneys?
Properly, actually, most individuals simply probability on to it and they’re fairly excited. We’ve found that individuals who need an vintage ring from Barneys have normally been to all the normal sources. They’re on the lookout for one thing totally different. Actually, it’s the identical purpose they’re procuring at Barneys for something.
All of the gross sales associates within the nice jewellery division are very educated in regards to the vintage items I carry. In addition they know they will name on me for any further info they may want or if a consumer desires to see extra choices. Since I stay in Manhattan, I work straight with shoppers on the New York shops to seek out the best ring. We sit within the personal VIP room positioned throughout the jewellery salon. Individuals really feel snug procuring right here as a result of it’s extra of a well-known environment than a standard jewellery retailer.
All forms of shoppers are available in. The person who you sat down with had been to the jewellery division along with his girlfriend when she fell in love with an vintage sapphire ring. He got here again to purchase it as only a current for her and it had offered. Throughout the strategy of on the lookout for one other ring, he realized he wished to get an engagement ring. Nothing within the assortment on show was fairly what he wished. That’s when the gross sales affiliate referred to as me in to begin working with them.
Collection of diamond and platinum engagement rings at Barneys curated by Stephanie Levy Picture by Marion Fasel
All of your rings are beautiful, however the group you confirmed him actually blew me away. I’d like to overview the points of the rings you defined throughout the get collectively. One uniting issue appears to be that your whole vintage rings are product of platinum.
It’s true. Across the flip of the 20 th century, jewelers found out the best way to work with the metallic they usually absolutely embraced it. All the things went platinum and it’s straightforward to know why. Platinum appears to be like clear and crisp in comparison with the silver topped gold settings that existed in jewellery beforehand.
Plus, the energy of the metallic allowed jewelers to make these fantastical creations. They did lots of piercing or openwork on the designs that added dimension. There’s additionally filigree that creates factors of curiosity all around the metallic. Hand engraving provides a lyrical aspect to the floor. Small diamonds usually seem all around the platinum rings as a result of the energy of the metallic permits for that form of element.
One other wonderful characteristic of platinum is that it doesn’t patina a lot over time. Platinum doesn’t blacken like silver or white gold for that matter. It ages fantastically. I consider the metallic warms in hue, however the rings right here which are virtually 100 years previous nonetheless look crisp.
A lot of the rings within the assortment are from round 1900 to the Forties. There is perhaps a gold aspect right here or there however platinum was absolutely the king of metals throughout this prolonged interval that’s the timeframe of the gathering right here.
Inform me in regards to the diamonds in your vintage rings. You have been taking such care to overview the 4Cs and every thing a gem certificates means along with your consumer.
The diamond shapes are normally Outdated Mine and Outdated European that are predecessors to the fashionable day spherical brilliant-cut diamond. I even have some Asscher cuts. What I want in regards to the previous shapes is that they have been minimize by hand. There was no laser know-how. This provides every stone some character. There’s an unimaginable chunkiness to the previous diamond shapes. There’s a heat and depth to the stones. They aren’t the brilliant lights of the brand new stones and I want that.
Within the twenties and thirties, they didn’t have the know-how to go as deep within the diamond mines as they do in the present day. Numerous the stones in rings from these intervals are D colorless—the most effective—on down by way of the alphabet. I do speak to individuals about how a contact of the best colour in a white diamond can add heat to a stone. In different phrases, its not at all times in regards to the perfection of the 4Cs in vintage diamonds. It may also be the character present in quite a lot of diamond grades. It’s a matter of style.
An assortment of diamond and platinum engagement rings at Barneys curated by Stephanie Levy Picture by Marion Fasel
Just lately, I offered a Ok colour VS1 that had a lot character to a person who was an artwork collector – tremendous savvy and complex. To him it was like buying a murals. He appeared on the diamond in the identical method and noticed its magnificence and individuality.
Everybody appears to be like at gems in another way. I do have certificates from the most effective gem labs for all of the diamonds that weigh 1-carat or extra so individuals know precisely what they’re getting. The one stones that will not have a certificates are the bezel-set diamonds. To take away diamonds from the mounting would harm the vintage design. I’ve an unbiased gemologist give a greatest guess to overview gems in these circumstances.
One other wonderful a part of your presentation to the consumer included free gems and classic mountings with out heart stones.
Shopping for an engagement ring is a really private expertise. You actually get to know a consumer. He was superb at explaining his girlfriend’s type. Since vintage rings are all one-of-a variety I do wish to have again up choices of unmounted rings and a few lovely previous stones that might be set in them. I’ve a tremendous jeweler that may mount the gems or if a consumer desires to construct a hoop from the bottom up primarily based on the vintage parts we reviewed that can also be an choice.
What ought to individuals anticipate by way of costs for the vintage rings at Barneys?
I useful resource rings from all around the world to be sure that each piece comes with a full file from the gem certificates to the historical past to a aggressive value for the market. There are rings within the assortment for $4,000 on as much as $90,000. The common is round $10,000.
There’s lots of speak these days in regards to the recognition of different engagement rings, however every thing you may have described makes me really feel vintage rings are an exquisite various alternative for a bride.
It’s true in so some ways. We stay in a world that’s so disposable. Right here you may have one thing that’s so renewable. It’s the inexperienced factor to do. You’re buying one thing lovely that has already been cherished for nearly 100-years.
For extra info on engagement rings at Barneys name 212-826-8900 and ask for the nice jewellery division.
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