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In the market for a diamond style that’s positively hypnotizing? Let us introduce you to the vastly underrated emerald cut diamond. This exquisite diamond is known for its traditional yet artful aesthetic, created by a clever cutting technique that creates a deeply dimensional, mirrored look you won’t be able to take your eyes off.
It may not be as popular or sparkly as the brilliant-cut round diamond, but stones of this variety have earned their place in the jewelry canon. For example, Elizabeth Taylor referred to her 29.4-carat emerald cut stunner as an “ice skating rink,” and it’s not hard to see why with all those icy facets! And then there was Mariah Carey’s jaw-dropping 35-carat emerald cut diamond ring, which garnered $2.1 million when she sold it in 2018.
It’s easy to see why so many style icons adore this shape, but is it right for you? Read on to learn all about emerald cut engagement rings and why they may be perfect for your love story.
Where Did the Emerald Cut Originate?
With its eye-catching step-cut shape, the emerald cut is often cited as one of the most iconic examples of Art Deco jewelry. And there’s a reason for that! But let’s not get ahead of ourselves because this cut goes back much further than the 1920s.
This glimmering stone shape traces its roots back to the 1500s, when stonecutters began honing a special method specifically to cut notoriously brittle emeralds. The vulnerability of the emerald could be countered by eliminating its weakest points — the corners — to make it stronger. It just so happens that strengthening the stone also gave it quite an enthralling look, which is why it has been used on so many different gemstones, including diamonds.
Although it’s often cited as one of the oldest diamond shapes around, emerald cut stones didn’t rise to popularity until the Art Deco age, beginning in around 1920. The highly faceted, geometric and mesmerizing shape paired perfectly with the style of the era, which was all about sparkle, triangles, geometry and crisp, smooth lines. Think: Daisy Buchanan’s wardrobe.
Today, the emerald cut stone is considered an all-time classic, but it falls a bit lower on the popularity scale compared to the round or square diamonds. With that said, it’s not a shape you should overlook. It’s coming back into style quickly and even was the choice stone shape by Jennifer Lopez and Amal Clooney.
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Features of an Emerald Cut Diamond
To understand what an emerald cut diamond looks like, we need to go through a few very important features, including shape, ratio, cut, color, clarity and more.
- Shape: The Iconic Step-Cut — What makes an emerald cut an emerald cut? It’s all about the shape. This fancy cut stone is rectangular with cut corners and has chiseled step cuts, which gives it that signature kaleidoscopic aesthetic. The emerald cut diamond is typically cropped at its corners to make it stronger with large step facets that subtly resemble a grand staircase or, like Taylor said, an ice skating rink. You’ll see more emerald cut diamonds in a rectangular shape, as this is the best way to achieve the flat panes that reflect so much light, but square shapes are also relatively common.
- Ratio: How Rectangular Is It? — The length-to-width ratio — calculated by dividing the length by the width — of a diamond indicates how square or rectangular it is. When it comes to emerald cut, the more rectangular the better, so many people aim for a ratio of between 1.30 to 1.60. There’s no “right” or “wrong” when it comes to the perfect emerald cut diamond’s shape since it all comes down to your preference and the setting of the ring.
- The 4 Cs: Cut, Clarity, Color and Carat — Regardless of which shape you’re considering, you need to evaluate the 4cs — cut, color, clarity and carat (weight) — and try to find the best option for your budget.
- Cut — As we already covered, this is a stone known for its square or rectangular shape and unique step-cutting.
- Clarity — This special cut is stunning in many respects, but it also makes it a bit more likely to show inclusions within the stone. With an emerald cut, your jeweler will recommend choosing a more flawless stone. Avoid anything lower than a VS1 on the GIA clarity scale.
- Color — As with any diamond, colorless is the most sought after hue when it comes to the emerald cut stone (typically anywhere from a D to a J on the GIA color scale), but some wearers may prefer the more yellow-tinged hue of diamonds in the K to R range, so this is primarily a matter of preference. Choose what you like and what fits your budget.
- Carat — Carat refers to the weight, and ultimately the size, of the diamond. This cut can be found in a variety of sizes, from as small as 0.25 of a carat to as large as the stunning 302-carat Graff Lesedi La Rona diamond, cut from the fourth-largest diamond ever found. Larger stones will better showcase the unique stepping quality of this shape, but it all comes down to your budget when picking a size.
- Settings: Showcasing the Steps — While the emerald cut diamond is versatile enough for different styles, you may want to opt for a simple setting to showcase the bling and reflectivity of the fancy stone. Consider this most popular emerald cut engagement ring setting: the three stone setting. Two smaller stones flank the show-stopping central emerald cut diamond.
A pavé setting, also popular for emerald cut diamonds, is ideal if you’d like to see small diamonds set along the ring’s band. While all of these types of ring settings are smart choices, when in doubt, choose the timeless solitaire engagement ring setting because with a fancy shaped diamond like the emerald cut diamond, there’s no doubt that this diamond will be a center stone that can carry its own.
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Why You Deserve an Emerald Cut Diamond
While an emerald cut diamond isn’t considered as brilliant as other diamond shapes, it does offer an elegant yet understated appearance. The glassy, mirrored nature of the emerald cut diamond may require a higher clarity grade to make inclusions less noticeable.
However, there are several benefits to getting an emerald cut diamond over other cuts. They’re easy to find, and also a much more affordable option compared to other shapes. If you’re looking for a larger appearing diamond without the hefty diamond price tag, opt for an emerald cut diamond.
Whether you’re getting an emerald cut diamond ring for your partner or a vow renewal upgrade to the person you said “yes” to all those years ago, Verragio offers a stunning collection of the finest designer engagement and wedding rings.
